TYPES OF CUTTINGS
If these pictures dont open click here!
Stem Cuttings are cut straight across the stem, just below the tip, where the current seasons growth commenced.
Cuttings from 'City of York', covered and in the cold frame. Note the date these cuttings were taken; August 24, 2009. They'll be uncovered in about six weeks. I prune back a stock plant and stick the prunings together in a 3 gallon pot labeled with the date the cuttings were taken. A label on the side notes the soil mix and hormone used (or not). Once rooted they may be grown together for several years in this same pot before being divided. I fertilize every month with Espoma Rose Tone; March through July.
Cuttings from 'New Dawn', after being uncovered and removed from the cold frame. Note the date these cuttings were taken; July 9, 2009. They were just recently uncovered after six weeks. I like using three gallon pots because the cuttings are exceptionally well drained while still having a large reservoir of moisture in the bottom third of the pot. Immediately after uncovering, I fertilize with a handfull of Espoma Rose Tone and move it to a location where it will be regularly watered and receive sun filtering through and between a few trees.
Basal Cuttings are side shoots that have been sliced off with a sharp knife at the joining with the main stem.
Heel cuttings are side shoots that have been pulled off down the main stem so that they have a sliver of that main stem at the base.
Heel cuttings generally root better than Basal cuttings and Basal cuttings more easily than Stem cuttings with a few exceptions.
CONDITIONS THAT CAN PROMOTE ROOTING IN CUTTINGS
Water must be available to the roots in the soil and as water vapor to the leaves in order to reduce the rate at which they dehydrate.
Oxygen must be present around the base of the stem in the area that roots will be produced.
Light must be available as the essential fuel for photosynthesis, the primary source of energy for growth.
Temperatures between 54 and 72 degrees F seem to promote the processes that affect root development the most.
HORMONES EFFECT ON ROOT PRODUCTION
Hormones are responsible for the recognition by the cutting of the absence of roots and the need for them.
Roots seem to be produced wherever there is a particular kind of hormone called Auxins.
Auxins concentrate in areas adjacent to cellular damage to either promote healing or root production depending on nead.
Auxins produce cells that grow into embryonic roots that mature into the kind of roots cuttings depend on.
High concentrations of Auxins encourage the production of embryonic roots to a point but then prevent further development.
Rooting hormones should be aplied only to the base of the cutting and the excess shaken off. Too much may prevent the growth of mature roots.
Wounding is a method by which the propagator can improve the performance of cuttings which have proven reluctant to root. The removal of a small sliver no more than an inch long from the side of the cutting directly adjacent to the cut will sometimes attract more auxins to the site and may also remove a scab that would otherwise deter root production.
CUTTING MIX NEADS
Dense enough to support cuttings so they dont fall over
Porous enough so that the respiration of the cutting is not retarded.
Be able to hold as much moisture as possible for as long as possible.
CUTTING MIX MATERIALS
Peat clogs the spaces between particles with dust. If allowed to dry out its difficult to rewet.
EFFECT OF FERTILIZER ON ROOT PRODUCTION
Root production can be prevented in cutting mixes that have fertilizer in them because of the presence of mosses that grow, clogging the air spaces that provide oxygen diffusion and respiration for the cutting. The growth of mosses is reduced in unfertilized cutting mixes. By the time moss starts reducing respiration rates the cutting will have produced enough roots to find the addition of nutrients welcome.
Above are cuttings I took from the Hybrid Rugosa rose 'Delicata' on July 1, 2009. Usually I attach a date label with the variety name printed next to the date but it seems to have been omitted in this case. Information pertaining to the hormone used or the soil mix is usually placed on a label stuck to the side of the three gallon pot. After six weeks sealed in a plastic bag the pot is removed and placed out in an area to be regularly watered after being fertilized with an organic slow release fertilizer. This picture, taken about a month afterwards shows almost 100% of the cuttings have rooted (20090701delicata.jpg). Other pictures below shows a somewhat worse success rate. The cuttings will remain undisturbed until spring at least at which time I may decide to devide them or allow them to grow together for a while longer. Clicking on the picture should open a larger version allowing you to study the cuttings a little closer.
(20090708ferdinandpichard.jpg)
(20090709americanpillar.jpg)
Many people feel that propagators need a lot of expensive equipment to get cuttings to root (20090709newdawn.jpg). My method should be enough to convince you otherwise. After the cuttings are rooted I may grow them for several years before dividing them or they might be divided as early as next spring.
Above is a picture that shows the surface upon which I place the pots. being rolled out weed mat and treated decking. In the fall these pots will be placed inside my cold frame and the decking will be picked up and stacked until used again next year (20090711furstinvonpless.jpg). If I dont keep the pots above the ground they may wick up excess moisture and rot. By using boards in this fashion Its easy to implement without breaking our backs and yet is easily removed when bringing in a tractor.
(20090723semiplena.jpg)
(20090724greatmaidensblush.jpg) aaaseptember
STICKING CUTTINGS
Water your mix thoroughly.
Make holes where each cutting will be inserted. I use a fresh unsharpened pencil.
Cuttings should be inserted no more than half an inch. A quantity of cuttings (all the same variety) packed closely together in the same 3 inch by 5 inch rectangular pot can help support each other.
Hardwood cuttings I took from 'Fantin Latour' (01127cuttingsfantinlatour112709.jpg). After taking the picture I cover it and put it in the coldframe. Next spring nodes beneath the soil may produce roots while the top node (barely revealed above soil) will produce leaves. This pot has around 15 cuttings. I grow rooted cuttings together until I need more plants before dividing them. Those I have an overabundance of I sell wholesale in the original pot. More information on 'Fantin Latour' at; http://www.floweringshrubfarm.com/crop023.htm
Hardwood cuttings I took from 'Leda' the painted Damask Rose (01127cuttingsleda112709.jpg). More information on 'Leda' at http://www.floweringshrubfarm.com/crop034.htm
CUTTING CARE
Cuttings should be left undisturbed in their propagator or cloche for 6 weeks.
As long as the cuttings remain green, their stems remaining undecayed, there is a chance they may produce roots. Peter Thompson in his book "Creative Propagation" indicates that conifers sometimes take 18 months to root (Thompson, 79).
The best way to keep them green for the required period of time is in some kind of incubator.
Removval of the bottom of the bag allows excess water to drain from the container while the top prevents the air from drying out (01120cuttingsfantinlatour112009.jpg).
(01120cuttingshippolyte112009.jpg). More information on 'Hippolyte' at http://www.floweringshrubfarm.com/crop188.htm
BELOW ARE PICTURES TAKEN NOVEMBER 19, 2009
I take cuttings, July through December, and insert them in a 3 gallon pot labeled with the days date (01119cuttingscityofyork111909.jpg). Further information may be noted on a sticky label attached to the side. The following spring, I fertilize with an organic fertilizer and set the pot somewhere it can get adequate water and drainage. Two years later it will be available for sale at not less than $30 for the entire 3 gallon pot of cuttings though generally not more than $10 per surviving rooted cutting. Many of these will be devided after two years and grown in their own three gallon pot with an individually numbered yellow inventory label attached instead of this date label. I sell them during my plant sale. Those interested in wholesale quantities are usually interested in the undivided pot full of cuttings that often contain between two and twenty rooted cuttings for the $30 3 gallon pot cost. Most of these are rooted cuttings of old or classic disease resistant roses. More information on 'City of York' at http://www.floweringshrubfarm.com/crop014.htm
(01119cuttingsfantinlatour111909.jpg).
(01119cuttingsispahan111909.jpg). More information on 'Ispahan' at http://www.floweringshrubfarm.com/crop031.htm
(01119cuttingsleda111909.jpg). crop 266
MIST PROPGATION
Mist propagation is not necessary for the majority of plants but can be useful for some difficult varieties. In a mist propagation system the air around cuttings is kept saturated with a fine spray of mater. High light intensities may be maintained and cuttings will root faster. Cuttings can be simply set out on a bench in the greenhouse.
The problem is that when something goes wrong you can lose your entire crop to the burning effects of direct sunlight or to drowning when to much moisture is aplied. Mist propagation also needs regular human interaction that my method doesnt need.
Own root roses in 3 gallon pots that are less than 2 years old are placed in our cold frame (01115coldframe111509.jpg).crop 266
MY PROPAGATION METHOD (Hardwood Cuttings)
Propagation begins with the setting out (on the tailgate of my truck) those things I think are needed (01204prepareforprop120409.jpg). Here I have a black plastic three gallon pot, a pruner to take cuttings, a pencil to make holes in the cutting compost, a marker to note the variety on the date label, today's date on a label, a utility knife to create a slit in the pot to attach the label to. At the top of the picture, almost out of site, is a bag of cutting compost. It is my policy not to share which one it is because there are many provided by soil and fertilizer companies to make the job of propagation easier. Its best if you find one that works for you, experimenting with several alternatives.
I remove several canes from the plant to be propagated, in this case the Apothecary's Rose or Rosa gallica 'officinallis' (01204threecanes120409.jpg).
The canes are cut into several pieces with three nodes each on top middle and bottom (01204cuttings120409.jpg). The variety and its vigor of growth usually determines the length of cutting, but each should have a top node slightly above soil to form leaves and two other nodes beneath soil that will form roots in spring.
The pencil is used to create the holes in which to insert the cuttings (01204lookingin120409.jpg).
I encase the pot in a clear plastic bag and tie it so that vapor will not escape (01204balloning120409.jpg).
After carrying the ballooned pot to the cold frame I remobe excess plastic bag from above the tie and pull the bag down the sides until the top is taut (01204covered120409.jpg). I hod it there with a bungee cord and cut drainage holes around the bottom so excess water can drain. The date label is attached directly above a drainage hole and so I cut holes in the bag around the outside where the holes in the pot are. The bag still maintains its integrity as a bag and so if its picked up by the bag top it will still hold the pot inside. Crop 321
BOOKS
"Creative Propagation" by Peter Thompson ISBN 0-88192-251-X published by Timber Press, Inc., The Hazeltine Building, 133 S.W. Second Ave., Suite 450, Portland, Oregon 97204-3527, USA
At the beginning of each month I start an issue in one of several hundred past newsletter pages and send a link to my subscribers. Every several days I'll add more pictures, comments and links to other pages. After a week or two I link the page to the month shown on my home page.
Pictures of flowers are often of the inventory type with the date the picture was taken within the picture. Each inventory picture is saved using a file name that starts with the inventory number of the actual plant either for sale or in the garden for propagation, ending with the date. Simply by saving the picture without the date I can overwrite the picture in a crop page for that variety alone.
Most of the plants have more than one season of interest. So I try to take pictures of the plants we grow when they are blooming but also in fall with decorative foliage or fruit and in winter when covered with ice and snow.
Potential Customers subscribe and I send a link to them from the latest picture-newsletter. When they see something they like they come buy it in bloom. I like to hear your comments so please email me and subscribe if you haven't already. Those who dont subscribe will have to wait for the most recent pictures until part way through each month but can still enjoy last year at this time.
IN WINTER I AT LEAST TRY TO SHOW LILACS IN THE FIELD, ROSES IN STORAGE, PLANTS IN 45 GALLON POTS OUTDOORS AND THE INSIDE OF THE COLD FRAME WHERE I OVERWINTER BABY OWN ROOT PLANTS AND NEW ROOTED CUTTINGS.
We grow plants to sell at our plant sale. Read my notes on the zone hardiness numbers I use. Do we do mail order? Check my picture-newsletter Want to purchase? email me.